Plant-Based ‘Chickenʻ at Rainbow Drive-In?
Strange but true.
As it often happens, the discussion in the lineup shifted to food.
But on this particular morning, as we floated on our longboards and waited for something akin to a wave to materialize, one of the Waikīkī regulars said something that raised our eyebrows.
“Rainbow’s is serving plant-based chicken.”
Wait, Rainbow’s? As in, Rainbow Drive-In, the old-school restaurant known for plate lunches overflowing with starchy, carby goodness, like hamburger patties drowning in thick brown gravy? The place that serves spaghetti alongside two scoops of white rice and mac salad?
That place?
Serving PLANT-BASED “CHICKEN”?
Sounded like a punch line to a joke someone needed to write.
So, of course, that’s where I immediately headed after surfing.
Sure enough, there it was, on the menu: “Plant-Based ʻChicken’ Karaage Bites.”
(Karaage is essentially bite-size pieces of chicken thighs dusting with flour and deep-fried. Japanese-style fried chicken. Except, in this case, it was “chicken,” and not chicken.)
Chris Iwamura, third-generation owner of the historic drive-in, said he soft-launched the plant-based “chicken” in July, an option for people who are vegetarian or vegan.
“There have been many times when all we could offer was a salad or french fries, so we wanted to expand our plate lunch offering to those people,” he says. “Our kitchen is small and almost 62 years old, so we really don’t have much space to offer many more items.”
Plant-based chicken-like products are typically made from ingredients like vegetable protein, soy or wheat, and they’re made to have the same texture and taste of meat.
(If you’re curious, Gardein makes stellar plant-based chicken tenders that you can find in most grocery stores. Crunchy exterior, juicy meat that doesn’t turn rubbery or weird. Really excellent, but I digress.)
The karaage “chicken” from Rainbow’s had a very slightly spongey texture — one you wouldn’t notice if you didn’t know these were plant-based. (My husband ate the whole thing without realizing it wasn’t real chicken.) They had a nice crunch to them, and the dipping sauce — it vaguely reminded me of Chick-fil-A’s signature sauce — provided a much-needed flavor punch.
And yes, I get the irony of serving something vegan — aka healthy — alongside two massive scoops of white rice and a mayo-laden macaroni salad. But Rainbow’s isn’t exactly known for its healthy options.
This is the first time since the restaurant opened in 1961 that it’s offering something vegan on the menu. (Right now, it’s only available at the Kapahulu location.)
“Why chicken? We just felt that the plant-based chicken offered the closest option to the comfort-style food we serve daily,” Iwamura says.
Though I feel like an Impossible loco moco is next.
Rainbow Drive-In, 3308 Kanaina Ave., Honolulu, (808) 737-0177, rainbowdrivein.com
